The fashion for jackets is timeless. This is especially true for elegant models with a stylish design that suits people of different ages. These include a double-breasted jacket, which is rightfully considered a universal item of men's and women's wardrobe. Before purchasing it, you should study the differences between the product and the single-breasted style, compare all the varieties in order to choose the most suitable option for yourself.
What is it
A double-breasted jacket is a garment with 2-4 symmetrical vertical rows of buttons. In it, the upper part is superimposed on the lower part, tightly adjoining it, forming a wide overlapping area. One row of buttons in this model is not used at all, it performs a decorative function.
To describe the design of a specific model, the following notation is used: "number x number", where the first digit is the total number of buttons, and the second is the number of fastening elements under the lapel. For example, in the case of original double-breasted jackets with 6 fasteners, 3 of which are fastened and 3 serve as decoration, the following information will be indicated: "6 x 3". The most common combinations are: "6 x 2", "4 x 2", "4 x 1", "8 x 3".
On the inside of the jacket there is a hidden button called a jigger or anchor, which holds the overlapping layers together. The collar most often has pointed lapels that overlap each other and form a V-shaped neckline. Depending on their width, there are three types of the described details:
- thin – from 6 to 7 cm;
- wide – from 9 to 11 cm;
- standard – from 7 to 9 cm.
The double-breasted style can be equipped with chest and side pockets. The cuffs are usually decorated with 1-4 buttons. What are double-breasted and single-breasted jackets, and how do they differ - questions that many people ask.
| The difference | Single-breasted | Double-breasted |
| Number of fasteners | 1-3 in one vertical row | 4-8, forming 2 parallel rows |
| Fastening method | It is customary to leave the bottom button unbuttoned. | It is advisable not to button the last button, but this is not a mandatory requirement. |
| Degree of formality | Traditional, most common style in clothes of different styles | It is considered more formal than single-breasted, as the more complex the design, the more presentable it is. |
History of the trend
The double-breasted jacket, like many other elements of men's clothing, has military origins. In the late 19th century, British aristocrats began wearing such items, stylistically similar to the jackets that naval officers wore on ceremonies. The new model of the item had 6 discreet buttons instead of 8 brass ones, and later a style with 4 fasteners appeared, invented by the Duke of Kent.
Initially, many employers prohibited wearing double-breasted jackets because they were considered informal clothing. It was the choice of men for tennis matches and other outdoor events. This changed in the 1920s and 1930s when the Duke of Windsor, who set many of the style trends of the time, began wearing double-breasted jackets to formal public events.
During World War II, the double-breasted suit became a rarity as the British government banned wasteful use of fabric due to shortages of materials.
In the post-war period, in the 1950s, the double-breasted jacket was brought back into fashion by Hollywood actors Humphrey Bogart, Robert Redford, Cary Grant, who appeared in this item on film sets and at social events. In the 60s, this model disappeared again. In 1970, the trend was revived thanks to the Nutters of Savile Row studio and the young American designer Ralph Lauren, who wore a classic style with a signature monogram on the sleeve. Around the same time, the wardrobe item began to be popular with women.
After a long decline in the late 20th century, the double-breasted jacket is back at the peak of popularity. The distinctive feature of the modern cut is its versatility. Compared to the old wide models, today's double-breasted jackets are elegantly tailored, shortened and suitable for both casual and office styles.
How men wear
A double-breasted jacket favorably emphasizes a man's physique, namely broad shoulders, a flat torso, and a narrow waist. The style looks great on tall and slender men. Basic advice from stylists:
- The design of the product visually enlarges the torso, so single-breasted models are more suitable for men with a wide chest.
- If you are short, the 6-button style may be too long. It is better to choose the 4 x 2 or 6 x 2 options, which fasten only on the bottom button. They emphasize the length of the lapel, visually lengthening the silhouette.
- In the “6 x 2” or “4 x 2” styles, if there is no need to adjust the figure, it is customary to fasten the two middle buttons, located just above the waist.
Modern models of double-breasted jackets are distinguished by their sophistication. Loose styles with wide sleeves and sharp shoulders have been replaced by fitted models with neat, thinner sleeves and a natural, smooth shoulder line. The current double-breasted suit, while retaining its original elegance, embodies stylish minimalism.
Popular female models
Since 1962, when French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent introduced jackets into women's fashion, this trend has only strengthened. The choice of style depends on the features of the figure and the occasion. For example, a jacket with 6 buttons is suitable for special events, as it adds formality or sophistication. Models for women are distinguished by two basic parameters:
- By cut. According to this parameter, products are divided into fitted and loose. The former are characterized by a tight cut that completely follows the curves of the body due to the smooth line of the shoulders, thin sleeves, and a defined waist. They are suitable for slender girls, as they favorably emphasize the figure. The latter are styles with a relaxed fit, wide sleeves, and a straight silhouette. Loose oversize jackets help to hide figure flaws and balance proportions.
- By length. Short, medium, and extended models are sewn. The first ones are jackets up to or above the waist. They are usually worn over dresses by petite women. Medium ones are a universal style up to the hips, and extended ones end below their line, which looks great on tall girls.
The women's long jacket served as the basis for the creation of a double-breasted dress - an elegant, elegant item in a woman's wardrobe.
Combination with clothes
Traditionally, a double-breasted jacket was considered formal wear for business people. But times have changed, and it has become a universal wardrobe item, compatible with different styles and suitable for any season. Stylists advise avoiding saturated prints on a double-breasted jacket and giving preference to basic colors, including dark blue, gray, white, beige, black. This is due to the fact that it is bright in itself due to its unusual design.
The product looks good with different types of pants that differ in color, such as creased trousers, chinos, jeans. It is worth choosing a bottom in neutral shades to avoid strong contrast. A white top and a black bottom is a classic win-win combination.
A double-breasted jacket usually has sleeves that reach to the wrists, so you should choose long trousers or pencil skirts that fall below the knees. It is worn over a classic shirt with a tie, a turtleneck or a T-shirt with a round neck. Models with shortened 3/4 length sleeves are less common. They are combined with ankle-length pants and short skirts. Shoes and a bag should be conservative so as not to create an unnecessary accent and not to distract attention from the top. Black or brown shoes and a neat clutch instead of large accessories look harmonious.
It is recommended not to overload the image with an excessive number of accessories, so that the top does not get lost against their background. It is better to use sophisticated jewelry of one shade, for example, a watch, earrings in gold or silver.
Fashionable images
Although a double-breasted jacket is a common part of business suits and tuxedos, it is great for casual and glamorous outfits. For this, it is important to know what to wear it with, creating fashionable looks in different styles. Recommendations:
- A double-breasted jacket corresponds to the office dress code. If you choose a suit with a blouse or shirt with a French cuff paired with a neutral tie, you can safely go to work. In the autumn-winter season, a thin cashmere turtleneck will come in handy. The best style for the office is the "6 x 2" style, which should be fastened with the middle button. The anchor clasp should also always be fastened.
- In everyday life, stylists recommend wearing a jacket with chinos, jeans or even shorts to add a casual touch to the look. You can replace a classic blouse with a top, T-shirt, linen shirt, thin cashmere sweater or turtleneck. According to stylists, the latter items should be neutral and plain. Comfortable flat shoes – sneakers, leather derbies, oxfords, loafers – will complete the Casual ensemble.
- A double-breasted jacket, embodying discreet elegance, allows you to create feminine glamorous images. To do this, you should give preference to fitted models made of elegant fabrics - satin, silk, lace. You also need to pay special attention to the fittings. For example, sparkling stone buttons will add charm to an evening look. A thing with a metallic effect or a white satin jacket with a long lapel and two rows of gold fasteners, light wide palazzo trousers, high-heeled shoes - in total, an image made up of these things looks very stylish.
Following the advice of experts, you can find your ideal double-breasted jacket and create fashionable looks. A correctly chosen product will decorate an outfit of any style. The main thing is to feel comfortable and confident in it.
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