A skirt is one of the most popular items of women's wardrobe. Thanks to the variety of styles, every woman can choose a thing that suits her taste. Sun, pencil, tulip, godet, Tatyana skirt - all these models are able to correct a woman's figure, emphasizing the advantages and hiding small defects. The last style is especially popular with designers, as it makes the silhouette even slimmer.
Selecting a model and fabric
Tatyana is a fluffy skirt with different types of folds, with an elastic band, belt or yoke. This is a universal option that can fit organically into most styles and images. The classic version is a skirt with an elastic band. When sewing such a model, easily draped materials are most often used: silk, chiffon, viscose. The elastic belt can be placed both inside and outside, depending on the features of the model. This style is often chosen by novice needlewomen, due to the ease of its execution.
Skirts with a belt are more formal. They fit well into a business dress code in combination with a classic blazer or cardigan. A contrasting belt or ribbon can be used as an accent. The latter will fit perfectly into a romantic image. The style with a belt suits those with an hourglass figure.
A wide yoke ensures a comfortable and beautiful fit. A rigid wide belt allows you to define the waistline, as well as its smooth transition to the hips. This is one of the most feminine models. A skirt with a yoke is sewn from denser materials that allow it to hold its shape, so it turns out a little more voluminous. This factor should be taken into account when choosing a model for an image.
The necessary splendor of the Tatyana is given by various types of folds. Their size and quantity depend on the material, as well as on the method of sewing the product. Models with a yoke have less pronounced gathers than, for example, options with an elastic waistband.
The Tatyana skirt can be presented in both summer and winter versions. It all depends on what fabric is used in its production:
- Cotton. Natural material with properties such as breathability, hypoallergenicity and hygroscopicity. Ideal for summer.
- Viscose. A synthetic type of fabric obtained by processing wood. The material is affordable, drapes well and looks impressive.
- Silk. A fabric of natural origin with a high degree of air exchange. Suitable for hot summers, pleasant to the body, has a noble shine.
- Chiffon. Easily draped, thin material. Suitable for sewing gathered skirts, but due to transparency requires lining or multi-layering. There are types of chiffon with the addition of synthetic and natural fibers.
Tatyana also looks great when using knitted fabric, thin denim or wool, lace fabric. In addition to the material, a novice seamstress should prepare the following tools before work:
- elastic band (if provided by the model);
- sewing (safety) pins;
- cutting scissors;
- sewing tape;
- needle and thread;
- ruler;
- chalk or a piece of soap;
- iron;
- sewing machine
According to the most widespread version, the skirt got its name in honor of the main character of the novel "Eugene Onegin" Tatyana Larina.
Determining the number of folds and calculating the material
The folds on the skirt differ from each other in the direction and method of laying:
- One-sided. A classic type of folds, laid in any direction, depending on the style (usually to the left).
- Counter. A type of one-sided folds laid in the direction of each other.
- Bowed. Gatherings laid from the middle in different directions.
- Fan-shaped. Multi-layered overlap of one fold on another, forming a fan when pulled. If the skirt is too voluminous, this can be corrected by simply ironing.
Tatyana is one of the most basic models. You can sew it, spending only 1.5-2 hours of your time. It is cut simply. First, you need to take the following measurements:
- hip circumference (HC);
- waist circumference (WC);
- product length (PL).
Then they decide on the type of folds. The most popular options are bow and one-sided. The latter option is recommended for beginner needlewomen. The width of the fold most often varies from 3 to 7 cm.
The main indicator for calculating the number of gathers is the hip circumference. An allowance is added to it, and then the resulting number is divided by the selected pleat width. The most obvious way to explain this is with an example. Initial data: OB - 86 cm, pleat width - 5 cm, allowance - 4 cm. Then the formula will look like this: quantity = (OB + allowance) divided by the pleat width, you get (86 + 4): 5 = 18 pcs.
Regardless of the type of assembly chosen for the skirt, the material consumption is the same. The depth of the fold is two of its widths, so the amount of fabric required will be calculated using the formula: (OB x 3) + 4 cm (allowance).
Nuances of cutting
To sew a gathered skirt, a pattern is not required, since the cutting can be done directly on the fabric. The model does not need darts. The cutting shape is a rectangle, where the length of the product is marked along the grain line, and the width along the cross line.
When sewing a model with gathers, the hip circumference is multiplied by a special coefficient, which is responsible for the fullness of the future skirt. It varies from 1.3 to 3.5 and more. The denser the fabric, the lower the fullness coefficient.
Seam allowances must be added to the length of the product: 1.5 cm along the waistline and sides, 6 cm along the hem. The model with an elastic waistband requires an additional allowance for the width of the drawstring. When sewing other styles of skirts, the yoke or belt are cut separately. Having decided on the width and number of folds, it is necessary to make markings directly on the fabric. The result will be a fabric divided into vertical stripes of the same width.
Before making folds, you need to hem the bottom edge of the product.
To make it clearer how to make simple one-sided folds, let's look at an example. Initial data: fold width - 5 cm, quantity - 17 pcs., OB - 90 cm, OT - 56 cm.
- Any skirt tapers towards the waist, so for a better fit, you need to calculate the taper factor. Subtract the waist measurement from the hip measurement: 90 – 56 = 34 cm.
- We divide the resulting number by the number of folds: 34: 17 = 2 cm.
- Since the fold has 2 sides, then 2: 2 = 1 cm.
The result is the value by which the depth of the elements located at the waist will increase. Thus, the width of the folds at the top will be 7 cm, and at the bottom - 5 cm.
Stages of sewing popular models
The Tatyana skirt is easy to make, so this model is most often sewn at home. It is not necessary to have sewing experience. Any girl can handle such a product, the main thing is to follow all the instructions of the master class.
Simple elastic band with gathers
A skirt with an elastic waistband is easy to use. It is quick and easy to put on and does not require any complicated additional work: sewing in a zipper or cutting out a separate waistband.
Step by step instructions:
- mark a rectangular pattern with all the necessary allowances on the fabric and cut it out;
- stitch the skirt fabric along the only side seam and iron it;
- fold the material along the waist line to the width of the drawstring;
- the elastic band for the skirt should be equal to the waist circumference minus 5-10 cm;
- fold the bottom of the model over the laid allowance;
- put in an elastic band;
- Iron the finished product carefully.
If desired, the edge of the Tatiana skirt with elastic can be decorated with lace, another type of fabric or bias tape.
On a yoke for a girl
Many needlewomen are interested in how to sew a Tatyana skirt with a yoke. This model is often used when developing a school uniform. In fact, the process is not complicated, even a novice seamstress can handle sewing.
Step by step instructions:
- Take a ready-made pattern of a classic straight skirt with darts and transfer it onto paper.
- Measure the height of the yoke from the top edge. For a girl, 8-10 cm will be enough.
- Draw an arched line, cut out the pattern and transfer it onto the fabric.
- Mark the hem of the skirt on the material - a rectangular shape with allowances, cut it out.
- Fold the edge of the product.
- Calculate and transfer one-sided folds to the pattern.
- Secure them with safety pins and stitch, leaving 1-1.5 cm from the top edge.
- Pin the yoke to the center of the hem and then along the top edge.
- Sew on a machine, leaving a 1 cm allowance.
- Sew the side seam up to the fastener insertion mark.
- Sew in the zipper and fold the top edge of the garment.
Sewing an elegant Tatyana skirt with a yoke is a little more difficult than the version with an elastic band, but it also looks much more impressive.
On the waist with bow pleats
This is one of the most romantic models with beautiful bow folds. The work is not painstaking, but requires the utmost attention.
We sew according to step-by-step instructions:
- Mark a rectangle on the fabric with a pre-determined length of the product, width and necessary allowances.
- The pattern for the belt is made even simpler: its length is equal to the waist circumference with a seam allowance (4-5 cm), and the width can vary from 2 to 5 cm. When cutting out the fabric, this figure will automatically double, adding 1.5-2 cm as a seam allowance.
- The belt is glued on the inside with interlining, stitched, turned inside out and ironed.
- The hem is cut out and folded along the bottom edge.
- The number of folds is determined. Their width is calculated. To do this, the waist circumference with allowance is divided by the number of folds.
- The depth is determined by subtracting the allowances and OT from the total width, after which the indicator is divided by the number of folds.
- The folds are marked with sewing pins, basted and stitched at a distance of 1 cm from the top edge.
- The skirt fabric is joined along the side seam and a belt is sewn on.
The belt can be made of contrasting fabric, overlapped with a button, hooks or a button.
A simple and feminine Tatyana skirt will easily fit into any look. The variety of models and colors allows you to use this wardrobe item in a variety of situations: from business meetings to romantic dates.
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