When the word "crinoline" is pronounced, one immediately imagines palace halls, court ladies in magnificent dresses, bending over in a minuet. It is interesting that this product is actively used today. The fact is that a crinoline is a rigid petticoat on rings, on which the upper skirt is held. The name itself comes from the Latin linum, which means "flax".
What is it
Crinoline is a stiff fabric woven from horsehair and heavy linen or cotton. With the help of hoops, a special dome-shaped structure was created from it. The rings could be made from different materials, such as whalebone, reed, steel rods. A tightening corset was worn under the crinoline, and several petticoats were added on top and bottom. Only after this was a smart dress, decorated with embroidery, frills and lace, put on.
Since the end of the 19th century, the use of crinoline has gradually faded away. It has survived to this day only thanks to wedding fashion. The design has undergone significant changes. It has become light, elastic and therefore more comfortable. The fabric has been replaced with a rigid mesh.
To add volume to a skirt, flexible rings are now used, which are made from fishing line, strong nylon, thin wire or plastic. The modern version is used not only to create ball gowns, but also for A-line and empire dresses.
History of creation and modification
The first mention of crinoline appeared in England in 1829. It was a stiff fabric made of horsehair with flax threads woven into it. In 1840, a French entrepreneur registered a patent for the material. From that time on, several factories began producing it.
Until 1850, crinoline skirts were popular among noble ladies. They were worn over a corset, with several simple fabric petticoats added on top to add volume. This design was completed by a formal skirt made of expensive material, decorated with embroidery and lace in the fashion of the time. This ensemble was uncomfortable and very heavy.
Beginning in the mid-1850s, several crinoline skirts were replaced by one, into which hoops made of steel or whalebone were sewn. This made the design much more convenient. It was sewn from woolen fabric or calico. A braid about 5 cm wide was sewn to it from the inside, into which steel strips were inserted.
By the mid-1860s, there were already two types of crinolines:
- The first was intended for everyday wear and resembled a funnel in shape: narrow at the waist, gradually widening towards the bottom.
- The second was used for evening wear and was much more lush.
In the early 1870s, the popularity of crinolines fell sharply, giving way to a new skirt on a frame called a bustle. At the end of the 19th century, this type of clothing finally went out of fashion. It continued to be used only for theatrical productions.
Modern varieties
Crinoline has survived to this day, it is actively used in wedding fashion. It emphasizes the style of the dress, makes the whole outfit elegant. The modern accessory does not hinder movement, does not interfere with enjoying the celebration. It helps to make the image of the bride more gentle and romantic, and her gait smooth and majestic, like a real princess. But to decide on the choice of accessory, you should understand its main types.
With rigid and flexible rings
The most popular petticoat among modern brides has flexible rings. This type of crinoline is considered a lightweight option. It is made of fabric, not a rigid mesh, as in other models. Its main advantage is that when walking, the rings do not stand out under the dress, they remain unnoticeable. They are made of plastic. Therefore, the design is light and does not restrict movement. But this is also its disadvantage. Plastic is a fragile material, so it can easily break, which will greatly spoil the appearance of the outfit. It should be handled very carefully, avoiding strong pressure and improper folding of the product.
The classic crinoline has rigid rings in its design, which are made of tin. Depending on the style, there can be from 1 to 7 of them. The petticoat is sewn from a rigid mesh, into which the required number of rings are inserted. The skirt has space underneath, thanks to which the bride can freely dance and move without getting tangled in the dress. But the model has a drawback. During movement, the rings begin to stand out on the fabric, which confuses many. Also, the rigid frame tends to rise high, which is inconvenient, for example, when getting into a car.
Multilayer
For those brides who don't like hoops, designers offer multi-layered crinolines that consist entirely of skirts. The lush effect is achieved due to a large number of layers of fabric sewn on top of each other. But the model also has its drawbacks. Due to the large volume of material, the structure becomes very heavy, it is hot in it, because synthetic fabrics do not allow air to pass through. In this regard, this type of crinoline is recommended for use in dresses up to the knee or slightly below.
Made of tulle or mesh
There is another type of crinoline, which consists of frills sewn from tulle or mesh. It is made by sewing several layers of fabric onto the main petticoat to obtain the desired volume. This is the only model that has no drawbacks. A girl can always make a choice: to use it alone or together with a frame on rings, making the dress even more magnificent.
For dresses with a train
Crinolines for dresses with trains can be made from either plastic or tin rings. Any material can be used, not necessarily a rigid mesh. Its size is calculated based on the length of the train. The downside of this model is its inconvenience. The skirt will look ugly when the bride sits down.
Basic styles
Each wedding dress has its own type of crinoline. The more rings it has, the more voluminous the skirt will be. But it serves not only to add volume, the crinoline also helps the dress to keep the necessary shape. To choose the right petticoat, you should start from the desired volume:
- The princess dress uses a rigid crinoline construction, usually made of 7 rings. The dress consists of a corset and a very full skirt.
- For an A-line wedding dress, you can choose a frame with two or three soft rings. The dress has a tight bodice, the cut gradually widens downwards, reaching the floor.
- For an empire style dress, you will need a crinoline with one or two rings. The model has a high waist, the fabric drapes softly and reaches the floor.
- Another popular style is the mermaid. The dress requires a petticoat with only one hoop. The dress is tailored to fit the figure, and only starts to flare out from the knee. It often has a train.
Whatever style of crinoline dress the bride chooses, a petticoat is guaranteed to make it chic and unique. It is better to consult a professional stylist. He will help you choose a model in which the girl will become the queen of the celebration.
Tips for choosing
When choosing a dress with a crinoline, you need to pay attention to how comfortable it will be to spend the whole day in it. The quality of execution is also important. Requirements for a modern petticoat for a wedding dress:
- First of all, you need to look at the mesh. It should not be too hard, otherwise there is a risk of scratching your legs and tearing your stockings.
- To make sure that the petticoat does not itch, you should put on the dress and sit or walk around in it for a bit.
- Next, you need to decide on the correct length of the frame. To do this, you need to sit down. Usually, the hem of the skirt is slightly raised. To make sure the petticoat is not visible, the crinoline under the dress should be 20–30 cm shorter.
- Make sure that one of the rings is at the level of the bride's lowered hand. Then it will be convenient for her to lift her skirt.
It is also important to consider that crinolines on rigid rings are suitable for dresses made of thick fabrics, such as satin or velvet. And flexible hoops are best combined with light materials, as they can break under the weight of heavy fabrics. It is good if the skirt has a lot of lace and frills, so that you can finally hide the frame of the petticoat from prying eyes.
Thanks to the crinoline, every girl can have a wedding dress that will make her feel like a fairytale princess for at least one day. All that remains is to choose the right style.
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