A man should remember that a regular suit is not always suitable for going out. The dress code "White Tie" or "Evening Dress" requires choosing a special outfit; a tailcoat is ideal in this case, it is an elegant, sophisticated element of the wardrobe of young men. It is worn with a white or black bow tie, put on only for celebrations that begin after 19:00. In order to get to an event and not blend in with the service staff, you should adhere to clothing etiquette. The cut and tailoring must be at a high level so that the product follows all the contours of the body. It is better to have a tailcoat made to order or to have a ready-made item adjusted to your figure in a studio.
What is it
Tailcoats are men's evening attire that will be appropriate for formal events. The clothing looks like a jacket with short (to the waist) rigid flaps in the front, the back part goes down below the hips, forming a "dovetail". Trousers should be narrow, with pockets, a high belt, suspenders and silk stripes (galoons) on the sides. The main color of the suit is considered to be black, but sometimes dark blue or “night shade” are allowed. A man needs to understand that such a luxurious garment as a tailcoat is suitable for a special occasion: a wedding, a diplomatic audience, a dinner party, and, of course, folds on the back or tails are not allowed.
In addition to the tailcoat, there are mandatory elements:
- a white shirt with a stiff, starched collar, the corners of which are turned down;
- a bib is a chest insert that adds a more formal look to the image;
- a silk bow tie, which can only be white or black;
- a white waistcoat (service personnel wear a dark version), its sharp corners should peek out from under the shortened tails of the tailcoat;
- strict patent leather shoes or lace-up shoes, black socks;
- long black coat and white gloves, silk scarf with tassels for cold weather;
- silk top hat or folding hat - headwear for the street;
- a pocket watch on a chain, a white handkerchief in the breast pocket of the jacket, or medals hanging on the left.
The tailcoat is made of high-quality worsted wool, sometimes mohair or wool blends. The galloons (stripes) on the trousers are trimmed with satin, the lapels on the tailcoat should be made of pure silk. The waistcoat is made of pique fabric with a small rib, which is easy to wash, does not glare, does not wrinkle, and holds its shape perfectly. The buttons should be made of mother-of-pearl or natural pearls.
The suit is also used in equestrian sports and in the European Ballroom Dancing Program. The riding coat is complemented by stretch cotton leggings. The cut of the men's jacket for a dancer differs from the classic one.. It is important that during movement there are no folds in the area of the sleeve and shoulder girdle, so the slope of the shoulder is reduced. The collar should not be high, then it will not rub the neck during the dance.
History of creation
The tailcoat was originally invented in France in the 18th century. It was intended for cavalry officers who wanted to look smart while riding. The short front of the jacket meant that nothing would hinder men's movements while riding, and the long tail added formality and gallantry. Then, by the 19th century, the outfit gradually began to be worn by members of the upper class at parties and receptions.
Thanks to classical writers, we can learn that in the 19th century, tailcoats could be not only black or dark blue, but also green, burgundy, with gold elements.
In the process of modifying the dress suit, a hypertrophied collar and lapels appeared, which gave a man in a tailcoat more solemnity. The bow tie was so bulky that it covered the chin. This style was called "incroyable", which in French means "incredible". However, this model of clothing quickly lost popularity.
In the 1830s, the tailcoat acquired a puffy sleeve and widened flaps at the hips. A few years later, a model designed for horse riding was created. It looked like a wide jacket with a slightly slanted tail, which resembled a frock coat with upturned flaps. The most popular version of the outfit was the style with silk lapels, which was complemented by trousers with stripes. Representatives of the upper class wore exclusively a black suit combined with a white starched waistcoat.
How is it different from a tuxedo?
Many modern men do not know the difference between a tuxedo and a tailcoat. To get an answer, you need to learn more about the features of the cut and the rules for combining each of the outfits. A tuxedo is a formal men's clothing that is allowed to be worn for formal events and informal meetings. The jacket has the same floors, long silk lapels, and it should always be buttoned, leaving the chest open.
White shirts and a satin sash are worn under a tuxedo. If a shirt with a stand-up collar is chosen, a bow tie is a must. The main difference between a tuxedo and a tailcoat is the lack of strict restrictions on the choice of color for the former, even light shades are allowed. For the Black tie invited dress code, it is necessary to choose classic trousers with a high waist, lapels and suspenders.
Tuxedos are sewn from thin woolen fabric. There are jacquard models, which can have a textured pattern. Satin or velvet are chosen for lapels.
A tuxedo can be combined with classic or tapered trousers, dark jeans. This feature allows a young man to follow fashion and adhere to the official dress code. A tailcoat can only be worn with trousers with satin stripes.
The visible differences between a tailcoat and a smoking jacket are the features of the jacket cut. Also, the first option should always be unbuttoned so that the shirt front and starched waistcoat are visible. A jacket with a tail is worn for formal events after 7:00 p.m., and the color of the outfit is black. Wearing a smoking jacket is allowed at evening receptions that are organized after 5:00 p.m.
Dress etiquette for guests and staff
A tailcoat is worn exclusively for formal events: a dinner party, a gala dinner, an official reception, a ball, a performance. You can't walk down the street in such an outfit. A man should buy a long coat or raincoat, the outerwear should completely hide the tails in the back. In the diplomatic world, such a suit is only worn at evening audiences. The white version is worn in exceptional cases, it is suitable for meetings in the warm season in the fresh air.
Accessories include a white breast pocket square, a boutonniere or medals. The shirt should have precious cufflinks that are not conspicuous. The main decoration of the outfit is considered to be pearl, silver or gold buttons on the vest. For indoor wear, it is recommended to take white gloves. The watch should be a pocket watch on a chain and only made of precious metal.
If the event organizers decide to dress the service staff in tailcoats, you should know how this suit differs from the official one:
- The color of the jacket can be not only black, but also green, burgundy, lilac.
- A white pique waistcoat cannot be worn under the uniform.
- The uniform for waiters includes a black cloth waistcoat and tie.
A tailcoat is considered the best clothing for a formal event with a white tie dress code. To avoid looking silly, it is recommended to combine the jacket with classic high-waisted trousers, a white shirt and a waistcoat. A formal suit requires perfect posture, so men with back problems choose a tuxedo or wear a special corset.
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