Both men and women want to look perfect. Sometimes ready-made items have to be additionally adjusted to the height and figure. Not all fashion lovers know how to hem trousers and what length they should be. You should focus on the model of the product, as well as on the individual features of the build of the person who will wear the trousers.
The right length for different models
There are general rules for determining the length of different types of trousers. It depends on what kind of shoes are worn with the clothes. The recommended norm is to the central point of the heel (for women). For men, the boots should be fully visible. The style of the model should also be taken into account.
| Women's trousers | For straight models, the recommended length is up to the middle of the heel. Wide trousers should partially cover the shoes. For tapered models, the optimal length is to the ankle. Flared trousers should be floor length. Sports - slightly expose the leg above the ankle. |
| Male models | Classic trousers partially cover the heel.
With tapered shoes with cuffs, the top of the shoe should be visible. |
The table above will help you determine how to hem your trousers. If the length of a newly purchased item does not meet the recommended standards, it must be adjusted. It is recommended to do this yourself, according to the instructions for beginner tailors, or in a studio. Trousers for a child or teenager (for example, a school uniform) must be shortened so that the seams can then be easily and neatly ripped out; children grow quickly.
Materials and tools
Every woman should know how to hem trousers by hand. You will need a tape for the job, sometimes they use a spider web. It is more convenient to shorten trousers on a sewing machine, but you can also do it by hand. To take measurements, you should prepare a centimeter tape. The list of necessary tools includes:
- Sharply sharpened tailor's scissors.
- A set of needles with different eye diameters.
- A piece of laundry soap or chalk for marking the fabric (you can also use a special marker).
- Iron (on an ironing board).
- Wooden or metal ruler.
Before starting work, you can watch a video tutorial that tells you how to shorten trousers of different styles. In no case should you use blunt scissors for work, otherwise you may deform the fabric. If you don’t have a tape measure or ruler at hand, you can replace them with a tape measure.
The fabric for processing must be laid out on an absolutely clean and perfectly flat surface. Before placing the material on the table, it must be thoroughly wiped and all foreign objects must be removed. The tape for ironing trousers must be of good quality.
To make the seams invisible, you should use threads of the same color as the fabric. Then the bottom of the trousers will look neat.
Preparing for work
Hemming trousers requires preparation. The hemming height is determined depending on the model of the item. It is convenient to do this with an assistant: one puts on the item, and the other measures the length. You can also use already hemmed trousers of the same model. To do everything correctly without an assistant, you need to:
- Turn a newly purchased and worn item inside out.
- Fold it so that the crotch seams touch.
- Mark the cutting line on the front side.
- Draw a right angle from the arrow.
- Draw a longitudinal line along both legs.
- Construct a hem allowance line, draw a second parallel line 3-4 cm below the first.
The easiest way to apply marks to fabric is with a completely dry bar of laundry soap. Before cutting off the bottom of the trousers, the legs are pinned together so that the hem height does not shift. This manipulation can be done with each leg in turn. This method is recommended for experienced dressmakers with a good eye.
Methods of hemming
Before you hem your trousers on a machine, you need to choose the right method. There are several ways to shorten the legs manually: a blind stitch and using a special tape (it is suitable for classic trousers), as well as cobweb processing (for jeans). The quick technique is very popular, it is used when working with men's and women's sportswear. Each type of stitching has its own step-by-step algorithm of actions.
With a blind stitch
The blind stitch got its name because when done correctly it is completely invisible, as it is hidden between the fabric. It is permissible to use threads slightly darker than the fabric. To process the product it is necessary:
- Turn men's or women's trousers inside out and pin them.
- Make sure the side seams and arrows match.
- Stick the needle into the cut end, grabbing a couple of threads from the trouser leg.
- Bring the needle out to the opposite side.
- Continue in the same manner, making punctures at intervals of no more than 5 mm.
When the blind seam is ready, it is steamed with an iron. This should be done only from the inside. The method is good because the material can be sewn on almost unnoticeably.
Using a glue web
If you don't have any thread or needle at hand, you won't be able to hem trousers with a blind stitch. Then you can use another method, without a sewing machine. It works well for items made of thick fabric, including jeans. To do this, you need to buy a spider web - a sticky tape that releases an adhesive substance when heated. Step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- Turn the pants inside out.
- Fold to the desired length.
- Place a piece of webbing between the hem and the leg.
- Iron this area from the inside with a hot iron without cutting the length.
Sometimes the webbing does not work the first time. The problem is related to its poor quality. In this case, it is recommended to iron the trousers again using adhesive tape.
With trouser tape
This method works well for pants of any style, especially those worn loose. The main purpose of the tape is to protect men's or women's trousers from premature wear. This aid is a narrow strip with small ridges along the edge.
There are several types of trouser tape: thin, medium thickness and extra strong. The color may also vary. For classic men's trousers, you should choose the most wear-resistant tape, for women's items made of lightweight fabrics, a modification with a less dense structure is suitable. The color of the auxiliary means for hemming should fully match the tone of the trousers. Step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- Draw a hem line on the fabric.
- Apply the trouser tape to this line.
- Sew the trouser leg in a circle.
- Cover the edge discreetly with the remaining tape.
If you leave the tape sticking out, it will soon fray and the trousers will look untidy. This method requires good sewing skills. It is suitable for correcting children's trousers, as it allows you to increase the length by 3.5-4 cm.
Fast
Another name for this method is Turkish. Shortening is done with a sewing machine using pin markings and basting. Step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- Roll up the trousers and secure.
- Stitch close to the seam allowances (you can overcast by hand).
- Smooth it upwards.
- Fasten at the seams.
The last step is very important. If you skip it, the seam allowances will bend. Because of this, the legs may turn out asymmetrical.
The nuances of processing sports trousers
Not all home craftswomen know how to shorten sweatpants. In a clothing repair shop, they are hemmed using special equipment for knitwear. At home, you can do this on any machine.
To prevent the material from wrinkling, experts recommend using needles with slightly rounded ends. To make the fabric stretch better, you can put a thin paper strip underneath. Step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- Measure the fabric for the hem and cut it.
- Overlock the edges.
- Pin the folds.
- Stitch from the inside.
Next, make another seam at a distance of 5 mm. If there is a zipper on the side, it needs to be ripped, setting aside 5 cm for the hem. Products with stripes are shortened at the place where the decorative seam passes. The same is allowed if these are sweatpants with an elastic band at the bottom.
The main disadvantage of knitwear is that it quickly deforms under the influence of mechanical impacts. To avoid this problem, it is recommended to use a special foot for careful advancement of the fabric during sewing. New models of sewing machines have a separate line for such material.
How to Shorten Trousers with Cuffs
Recently, models of trousers with cuffs at the bottom have become very popular. Both men and women willingly wear them. Step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- Make a mark on the bottom edge.
- Fold the cuff inside out and sew a double stitch along it.
- Carefully sew the seam allowances with a blind stitch.
- Turn the cuff inside out, stitch, and secure the edge above the inseam.
The final stage of work is ironing with a hot iron. Cuffs are usually double. However, in some cases, the length of the pants should not be reduced, but increased (for example, when working with children's clothing). Then they will be one and a half.
All instructions on how to hem trousers correctly state that the cuffs must be strictly symmetrical. If a novice seamstress is not confident in her abilities, it is better to turn to professionals. It should be borne in mind that the length of men's trousers of this style may be slightly shorter than the height of classic trousers. This is allowed by the rules of informal style.
Final processing
After treating the bottom of the trousers, they need to be washed and ironed. Before this, you should fasten the zipper and all the buttons. It is better to choose a detergent for delicate items.
When washing by hand, you can use a brush as an auxiliary tool. Apply soap (powder) to it and carefully wipe the entire surface of the product, paying special attention to the newly sewn bottom. It is strictly forbidden to wring out the item. When drying, the water should flow off by itself.
It is recommended to start ironing after shortening the trousers from the pockets. Then the iron surface goes along the entire perimeter of the belt. All folds are carefully straightened. To form arrows, you need to combine the outer seam of the leg with the inner one. The iron should be moved smoothly so that there are no folds and unevenness. At the moment of passing the fold line, you should turn on the "steam" function.
Sometimes the arrows disappear quickly. To make them last longer, you can use an old proven remedy. Before ironing the product, rub the fabric with any piece of soap.
Light-colored trousers may leave unsightly scorch marks from the iron. To avoid this, it is recommended to iron clothes through gauze folded in several layers.
It is not difficult to shorten trousers at home, so it is not necessary to go to a clothing repair shop. The main thing is to have the necessary tools and know the desired length of the product in advance. If a person has basic sewing skills, the work will take no more than half an hour. Doing your own stitching looks great and will save you time and money.
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